2012 April Meeting – Azalea Care with Rick Garcia

The April meeting presented a lecture demonstration on the care and management of azaleas by Rick Garcia. The demonstration tree was a shohin sized plant with a flush of new growth. Rick stated that he preferred a more natural look to his trees so he visualized the overall finished shape of the tree that would be somewhat wider than high. At the outset Rick made the strong point that whatever was done in any demonstration to any tree regardless of species should emphasize the health of the tree above all else rather than production of a dramatic finished product and his presentation continually reflected this point.

The time for both severe pruning and repotting Azaleas is late winter-February and March. A tree was shown that had been severely pruned as an example of what this would entail. All branches had been shortened to no more than two inches and the tree was completely defoliated. Cutting the tree back heavily stimulates growth and budding back of the branches leading ultimately to increased ramification. Many leaf buds were just showing on the trimmed branches, somewhat to the surprise and relief of some of the observers who worried that the tree would even survive such drastic pruning.

Because it was too late in the year for heavy pruning, the demonstration tree could not be treated as severely. Some heavy upright branches were shortened to bring the tree into proper proportions. Removal of heavy branches is made in two steps because complete removal in a single cut could leave a scar which will not heal over. Stubs of these branches were left and will be removed next year with cuts made flat to the trunk with a sharp knife. It was stressed that all cuts should be sealed. Sealing cuts prevent the tree from bleeding water from the open cuts, and moreover, the open cuts could invite rot. The rot would proceed to the trunk and to the roots seriously impacting the health of the tree. Terminal leaves on longer remaining branches of the demonstration tree were trimmed to induce budding along the branch. Removing heavy branches and leaving smaller ones is exactly the opposite of the procedure for pruning bonsai other than Azaleas.

Proper management of water is essential to success, and failure to recognize this can lead to death of the tree. Azaleas have distinctly different growth patterns from most of the trees grown as bonsai. The roots on most trees try to descend to the bottom of the pot whereas the fine feeder roots of azaleas are close to the surface. Drying out of the surface of the potting soil kills these fine roots to the detriment of the health of the tree.

Rick prefers kanuma as a potting media. Kanuma is a specially treated clay product from Japan and comes is several size particles. Rick uses the coarser particles in the bottom one third of the pot, medium size in the next third and the fine particles in the top one third. The rational for this layered arrangement of the potting medium is that the larger particles in the bottom promote drainage and the finer particles on top maintain the fine surface roots.

Azaleas are frequently top dressed with a layer of Japanese moss known as yamagoki. The moss serves several functions. Kanuma is relatively light in weight and the top particles can be washed out of the pot during watering. The moss helps to stabilize the surface and protects the Kanuma from being disturbed. It also helps to keep the potting soil cool on hot days, it prevents dirt from accumulating on the surface of the pot which would impede drainage and lastly, and somewhat counter intuitively, it wicks excess moisture from the potting media.

Azaleas require constant moisture but resent soggy media. Most bonsai trees are watered heavily until water flows freely from the pot and then are allowed to become relatively dry before again watering. Azaleas resent this boom and bust water cycle and are watered more frequently with less water to maintain a moist but never soggy wet potting media. During periods of heavy rain the pots can be raised on one side which helps to drain the excess water and prevent oversaturation.

Rick strongly prefers organic fertilizers, stating that inorganic fertilizers may lead to leaf burn. The choice of fertilizer also effects the growth of the branches of the tree. Branches on trees fertilized with organic fertilizers tend to be more flexible and can be more easily wired whereas inorganic fertilizers lead to much stiffer branches which are more easily broken when the tree is wired. He puts the solid fertilizer in tea bags which he places on the potting media. Direct application of the solid material to the pot is avoided because it can cause poor drainage. Fertilizer is applied as soon as growth is seen in the spring and continues through May or until the temperature reaches 85 degrees.

Rick recommended that anyone interested in azaleas visit BASA, a group of bonsai enthusiasts who focus on satsuki azaleas. The group meets on the fourth Thursday at the Lakeside Garden Center. Bob Gould can provide more information on the group. Rick also modestly stated that he operates a nursery devoted to azaleas and is a source of both fine plants and supplies. He can be contacted at www.nasbc.com.

More on Azaleas

Satsuki azaleas generally bloom between the middle of May and the middle of June and the exact time depends on both the variety and the spring weather. There will be a show of azaleas at the Garden Center on the weekend of June 2 and 3 which should be the peak of the blooming season. More details on the show will be given in coming newsletters. By all means put this show on your must do list. It is always spectacular.

For those members who want to know more about azaleas, there is a definitive book on the subject written by our very own Bob Callaham entitled Satsuki Azaleas for Bonsai and Azalea Enthusiasts. This book is the finest and most complete book ever written on a single bonsai subject and will tell you all you need to know about the care, styling and display of these beautiful trees as well as an extensive listing of the available cultivars. Dave DeGroot, a noted bonsai artist, declared in a formal review of the book that it is “a classic”. The book is available from the publisher,

Stone Lantern Publishing and they can be contacted at www.stonelantern.com.

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