Zzaleas have gotten the reputation as being difficult to grow, and this is a bad rap. In fact, they are easy to grow, but their needs are different from most of the other trees that we grow as bonsai. All it takes to make these rewarding plants a wonderful addition to your collection of bonsai is to understand what makes Satsuki different.

Most of the trees that we grow are top dominant. An example of top dominance is the pine tree. Pines want to grow tall, and as a result, most of the rapid growth occurs at the top of the tree. As the tree becomes taller, the lower branches slowly die out. Pines, as well as most of the bonsai we grow, are single-trunked trees. The challenge in growing pines as bonsai is to encourage the lower branches to continue growing so the tree remains in proper proportion.

Azaleas are the exact opposite. They are bottom dominant, and the challenge is to encourage growth at the top of the tree. New branches at the bottom of the trunk should be removed to prevent the tree from becoming a low, multi-trunked bush rather than a tree.

Azaleas are very lush growers and can be heavily cut back in winter to retain the shape of the tree. After heavy pruning, the tree is prevented from flowering since flowering draws heavily on the energy resources of the tree, energy that is best used to recover from the pruning.

The best time to remove flowers is when the flower buds are just beginning to show color. After three to four years, the tree should be severely cut back to old growth, or else the tree can become very gangly. The tree should only be allowed to flower every three years for maximum growth and health of the tree. The temptation to see the tree in flower is so great, that three years is more than most azalea growers are willing to endure.

Another difference for Satsuki is the roots and how they grow. Most of the trees that we grow as bonsai send their roots directly to the bottom of the pot after repotting. Again, Satsuki are the opposite. The fine feeder roots are on the top of the soil. In the first year after repotting, the new roots are on the top of the soil. The second year, the roots extent down the sides of the pot, and on the third year the roots finally grow along the bottom of the pot. This unusual growth pattern explains why pots used for azaleas are usually a bit deeper than pots used for most bonsai. This also explains why azaleas are frequently top dressed with moss to retain moisture on the top of the soil where the feeder roots are growing.

Repotting azaleas is different from repotting most bonsai. Rather than teasing out most of the old medium as we would do, for example, when repotting a pine tree, azaleas are repotted by simply shaving off a half an inch or so from the sides and bottom of the root ball, leaving a brick shaped root ball which is placed, intact, into the pot. New soil is tucked into the void left by the shaving process.

Azaleas are subject to root rot. Repotting is on a three-year cycle to prevent accumulation of decomposed soil in the bottom of the pot which would hinder drainage and foster root rot.

The essential criteria for soil is that air must be allowed to penetrate. Air helps prevent root rot. A large number of soil compositions can be successfully used for azaleas, ranging from mixtures of fir bark and sand to kanuma. Kanuma is ideal for azaleas. Kanuma is a Japanese clay product which is mined at the same location as the more familiar akadama. It is very soft, and must be handled carefully when used. Kanuma is more acidic than akadama, which azaleas appreciate.

One should use aluminum wire for azaleas because the plants have bark which is easily scarred. It should be applies the wire in winter, and leaves it on through the growing season.

When eighty percent of the flowers have bloomed out, all the flowers are removed from the plant. It is especially important to remove the seed capsules at the base of the flowers. Azaleas prolifically set seed which is a severe drain on the energy of the tree.

Flowers occur at the tip of branches. Usually there are as many as five new branches emerging at the base of the flowers, and these serve to support the flower. When the flowers are removed, the new branches should be reduced to two, and each of these should be cut back to two leaves. This two-and-two procedure will ensure that the tree continues to grow compactly.

Azaleas put out a flush of growth in early summer and can be fertilized then. A relatively mild fertilizer, 5-5-5 can be used. A rough guideline for the proper fertilizer is that the numbers should add up to no more than 15. Azaleas are fertilized in late summer to carry them through the winter, and again in the early spring. If the tree is allowed to flower, fertilization is withheld in April and May. Occasionally azaleas can develop yellow leaves, and this is due to a deficiency in iron.

Although azaleas abundantly set seed and the seeds readily sprout, the seedlings usually have poorly shaped flowers. Propagation is easily accomplished through cuttings taken in July. The cuttings are treated with root hormones and planted in vermiculite or fine kanuma.

Preparing a tree for show starts by thinning the flowers by removing those that are located deep in the tree. These flowers draw energy from the tree, but are not seen, so they are not needed. Also, flowers that are very close together do not show well, so these are reduced. This frequently occurs when there are two flowers on the same branch. Neither of the flowers can fully develop, and so one of these is removed. The top half an inch of soil is removed carefully so as to not disturb the surface roots, and is replaced with fresh soil. Finally, the tree is top dressed with moss.